Suwarrow Atoll, Cook Islands Photograph by Jeff Robbins, S/V Vesper September 2003

Ioane, everyone calls him Papa John, shows us where to find the freshest tern eggs. He's 71 years old and a remarkable person. He was a medal winning diver in French Polynesia diving to depths of 100 feet with no equipment and spearing multiple fish at the same time. He even survived a vicious shark attack several years ago. Nowadays, he cares for the dozens of yachts that visit the atoll every year.

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